Edge-to-edge pattern (pantograph) quilting, custom quilting and heirloom quilting are available for all size quilt tops, wall hangings to kings.  My fees are based on the size of the quilt top ranging from $0.015/square inch to $0.06/square inch with a minimum $50.00 quilting fee.  One need only to measure the quilt top, calculate the area (length x width) and get a pretty good idea of what the cost to quilt a top will be for any given quilt.  For example, if your quilt top measures 60 x 90, the area of the top would be 5400 square inches.  At the rate of $0.015/square inch, the cost of the quilting would be $81.00. 

 Pattern quilting is the least expensive ($0.015-$0.03/square inch) with a wide range of patterns available.  With this technique, the quilt top is quilted from one edge to the other in rows from top to bottom.  The longarm is hand guided following a pattern with a laser light.

 Custom quilting is defined as any technique used other than pattern quilting.  This technique can utilize block and/or sashing/border patterns, stencils, free motion quilting or any combination of these.  Crosshatch, baptist fan, and circles would also be considered custom quilting.  The rate for custom quilting starts at $0.03/square inch. 

 Heirloom quilting and trapunto is also available for those very special quilt tops.  This is very time intensive work and tends to be more expensive.  It’s work that I love to do so don’t hesitate to inquire if you’re interested.

I always ask permission to photograph my customer’s quilts when they are finished.  It gives me the opportunity to keep an album of quilts that I thoroughly enjoy perusing now and again.  I also sometimes put these photos on my web site, so don’t be surprised to find a picture of your quilt somewhere on the site one of these days.  These photographs are used for promotional purposes only.

HOW TO PREPARE YOUR

TOP FOR MACHINE QUILTING

QUILT TOP:

1.  Press the back of your quilt top well.  Please make sure that all seams are pressed flat on the back and facing in the desired direction.

2. Cut off trailing threads from the back of the quilt top.  If there are light areas on your top, dark threads can really detract from the finished product.  These are called “varicose” threads.  Not a pretty sight!

3. “Stay-stitch” ¼” in from the edge around the perimeter of the quilt top.  This keeps seams from “popping” and prevents stretching when attached to the zippers on the rollers.  (Please, NO serger stitching).

4. Indicate the Top of the quilt top with a piece of paper marked “TOP” if you have a preference.  Attach with a safety pin.

5. Fold top carefully and put on a plastic or pant hanger if you are bringing it to the Studio.  If you are bringing/sending fabric for binding, please pre-shrink, seam and press it. 

BACKING:

1.  Choose to use 100% cotton  for your backing fabric.  Poly/cotton and 100% polyesters stretch differently than cotton and can cause tucks and puckering during the quilting process.  Polyester fabrics can also “pill” and encourage “bearding” (migrating of the batting fibers to the surface of the quilt).

2. Please note:  Use of sheets or sheeting is not acceptable.  They cause poor tension and constant thread breakage.

3. Remove ALL selvages from seams and along the edges.

4. Please cut your backing and batting 4-6” larger than your top on all sides*.  (Packaged batting does not need to be cut.)

   *Cut your backing as SQUARE (90° corners) as possible.  If you piece the backing, please square all edges.  There is a $25 charge if I have to seam or square the backing.

5. Press well.  Backing seams can be pressed to one side or open.

6. Fold carefully and if you are bringing your quilt to the Studio, place on hanger with the quilt top.

**A TIP on attaching borders:  Make the quilt fit the borders, instead of the borders fitting the quilt.  By the time you finish your quilt top, the edge will usually have stretched somewhat, especially if there are any bias pieces on the edge.  If you measure the edge to get the measurement for your border, you will almost always end up with a quilt that will not hang or lay flat.  To avoid this, measure your quilt in three places through the center of your top, average these numbers and cut the borders this length.  Mark both the border strips and the quilt edge in eighths.  Match pins and ease quilt to fit borders.  Don’t forget to “stay-stitch” the edge as soon as you’re done attaching the borders.  This will prevent any stretching from further handling.

 Remember:  The better job you do in

preparation, the better job I can do for you!

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU BRING

YOUR QUILT TOP FOR QUILTING?

1.  A work order is started with your name, address, phone number and a general description of your quilt top.

2. You are given an “approximate” pick-up time (some lee-way time is required for custom design work). 

3. Your quilt is measured, both through the middle and along the edges.  Any difference in the measurements will alert me to the possibility of “ruffled” edges.  We will discuss the options available to deal with this.

4. Your backing and batting are measured to ensure that they are large enough for the top.

5. We will choose the most appropriate batting if you haven’t brought your own.  Questions to ask yourself when choosing the batting:

   1. What “look” do I want the quilt to have?  I.e. Antique, Traditional, Contemporary

   2. Who is the quilt for?  How are they most likely to care for and clean it?

   3. Do I want cotton, polyester or a combination?  Or is wool an option?

   4. How much loft do I want?  Do I want a quilt that is “flat” of “fluffy” or somewhere in between?

   5. Would a “dark” bat be best (if the quilt is all dark colors)?

   6. Is a pure white batting my best choice?

    

6. We will choose a pattern, or discuss custom designs, taking into consideration the following:

   1. The batting – how close does it need to be quilted?

   2. Who is the quilt for?  Do they prefer “plain” or “fancy”, “romantic” or “earthy”?

   3. Is the scale of the pattern compatible with the scale of the quilt?

   4. Will the pattern enhance your work or “steal the show”?

   5. If the top is a very simple design, would you like the quilting pattern to add another “dimension”?

    

7. We will choose the thread and color.

   1. Do you want the thread color to become part of the overall look and design, i.e. blend in?

   2. Do you want the quilting pattern to show up more in one area than another i.e. Log Cabin?

   3. Do you want the thread to add another dimension – in addition to the pattern?

   4. Would a metallic or variegated thread look fabulous?  Note:  Rayon and metallic threads are not strong enough for bed quilts and should only be used on wall hangings.

    

8. You will be asked to sign the order confirming that you understand all choices discussed and agreed upon.  Note:  Once quilting has begun on your top, no changes can be made to your order.

9. I will label the top with your work order number, add up the invoice and ask you to sign it.  It will state all of the choices you’ve made, the amount due and the approximate pick up time.

 Your quilt will be “binding ready” when you pick it up, i.e. trimmed to the edge.  If you wish a different edge treatment, please inform me at the time you are making your other choices.

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU SEND

YOUR QUILT TOP FOR QUILTING?

1. Print a copy of the work order from the web site and fill it out the best you can.  If you have questions or are not sure what might work best with your quilt top, we can discuss that via e-mail or phone at your convenience once I receive your quilt.

      Machine Quilting Work Order  

    

2. Following the guidelines, prepare your quilt top and back for shipping.

3. Carefully fold the quilt top, backing and binding and wrap in either plastic or tissue paper for mailing. 

4. When I receive your top, I will notify you either by e-mail or phone and we can discuss my questions and/or yours at that time.  I can then give you an estimate of cost and approximate time to finish.